The Quick and Easy Guide to Color Correction Part 2

By Jerrol Krause

In part one of this guide I covered the basics for color balancing. In this guide, I’ll show you more advanced techniques on how to take your color corrected photo and turn it into a gorgeous, glossy photo you might find on the cover of a magazine. This process relies a lot more on artistic interpretation than straight-foward color correction, so an eye for color certainly helps.

While my objective with this post is to achieve a colorful glossy underwater photo, you can use the same techniques to achieve any kind of style or mood you are looking for whether it’s a Film Noir look or a cold wintery day feel to your photo. Here is the original photo next to the color balanced one:

underwater coral photo

For this step, you’ll need a good grasp of how the colors correspond to one another in the levels/curves palette. Most of you are probably familiar with the terms RGB and CMYK, but not everyone is aware that the two color modes are directly related. Each channel correponds to its opposite color in the other color mode. For instance, red and cyan are opposites as are green/magenta and blue/yellow (black isn’t referenced). See this handy chart:

RGB to CMYK conversion

If you wanted to add cyan you’d drag the red midtone slider to the right in the red channel which would also remove red. In the same way, if you wanted to add red, you’d move the slider to the left which would also remove cyan. This works the same for the other color channels. The same method holds true for highlights and shadows. I’ve illustrated this on some levels palette snapshots:

Red levels palette

Green levels palette

blue levels palette

To start, I’m going to create another levels layer. This picture still has a lot of cyan and green in the image which makes it look washed out. I want to minimize the cyan and green and boost the red to make the coral in the foreground stand out as well as get a deeper richer blue.

On the red channel, I’m going to lower the red highlights to 225, this pulls out some of the cyan and boosts the red. On the green channel I set the green shadows slider to 40 which tones down the green by bringing up the magentas in the shadows. These two adjustments reveal too much blue though, so I’m going to tone that down. In the blue channel I drag the blue midtones slider to 0.75 and drag the highlights slider to 230 to keep any yellow from creeping in. This leaves us with something that looks like this:

underwater coral photo corrected

Now that we’ve got our basic top level adjustments done, it’s time to do some manual work. I like how the rocks behind the coral are green, the split complement sets off the foreground’s warm colors. Unforunately the last adjustment took a lot of the green out, so now I’m going to manually add that back in.

Create a new levels adjustment layer and in the green channel drag the highlights down to 210. This adds back in the greens on the rocks (and everywhere else). Fill the layer mask with black and with the brush tool and white as your foreground color paint back in the green only on the rocks.

underwater coral photo with more green

The last adjustment I want to make is to turn the water in the background from a pale cyan to a rich ocean blue. For this I’m going to use a Hue/Saturation Layer. Hue/Saturation lets you control each individual color channel separately without effecting any other channels.

Hue/Saturation layer Overview

The Hue slider lets you shift one color channel to another, you can reference the color stripe along the bottom for what the shift will do. The saturation slider lets you control the amount of color in the image. Be careful when using the Hue/Saturation Layer because it’s very easy to overdrive or blow out the colors in your image which makes it look speckled or grainy. I recommend you don’t move the hue slider further than +/-10 points, and the saturation slider no more than 20 points when boosting color.

Quick Tip: If you haven’t developed an extremely sensitive eye for color and want to notice subtle colors in your image, you can temporarily drag the Saturation slider to 100 which will boost all of the colors up to their maximum color value. This will let you see exactly what colors are present in your image.

Now, on the Hue/Saturation Layer on the master channel, I’m going to increase the saturation by 10 to bring out more color in the image.

Hue Saturation Layer Master

On the Cyan channel (which I selected from the drop down menu in the H/S dialog), I’m going to drag the hue slider to the right by 10 points which moves all the cyan colors into the blue range.

Hue Sat Layer with Cyan channel

And here is the finished shot:

I’d be happy to answer any questions in the comments.

  1. Posted June 20, 2008 at 11:04 am | Permalink

    Excellent guide on color correction! I really like the detail you have gone into with explaining the various areas of the Levels and Hue/Saturation tools. Thanks!

  2. Posted June 20, 2008 at 4:32 pm | Permalink

    Blue Buffalo,
    We aim to please. Glad we hit the mark in your case!

  3. Posted June 20, 2008 at 8:15 pm | Permalink

    Thanks for this and part one as well. Now I need to find the time to put this into practice with one of my photos to see how it turns out.

  4. Posted June 20, 2008 at 11:22 pm | Permalink

    I gave part I a try and loved the results. Can’t wait to try part II. Thanks for the great tutorials! Todd

  5. Posted June 22, 2008 at 2:00 am | Permalink

    Excellent tutorial, Lauren. I have a ton of photos just begging for this treatment. Thanks.

  6. Posted June 22, 2008 at 10:18 pm | Permalink

    Ooh, lovely. I never really thought of the colours that way, I’ll have to remember/return to this post.

    Any idea how much this varies with monitor? I find that mine is a bit clearer and brighter than some, so I make what seems to be a good toned and contrasted pic, but it’s not as good elsewhere. I’m going to be editing and printing some wedding photos soon, I’d hate for them to come out too dark or something.

  7. Posted June 23, 2008 at 3:52 am | Permalink

    kristarella, when I was researching monitors I discovered that there’s actually three types:

    * TN panel - fast response, 6 bit colors, BAD for photo processing. It has only 226,000 odd colors and it simulates the other 16.7 m colors. Don’t touch it with a 10 feet pole for photo editing.

    * S-IPS - probably the best for photo editing, 8 bit per channel. True 16.7 m colors, great for photo editing, but slow response times. Usually the monitor is $150-$200 more than a comparative TN panel.

    * S-PVA - opinion is split on how good S-PVA is. Some argue [quoting websites written in 2004 that S-IPS rules]. However, the rolls royce of LCD monitors, Eizo uses S-PVA.

    Find out the model you are in interested in and go here. Enter the model number into the search window hit “search” and it will tell you what type of panel that monitor is using.

    Pick a S-PVA or S-IPS panel with true 8 bit / channel. PVA [not S-PVA, but an old variant] is supposed to be inferior. Look for 6 bit or 8 bit. If the colors say less than 16.7 million don’t touch it. If it says 16.7 million, then it is good.

    Myself I opted for an HP w2207, which has a 22 inch 5 ms TN panel, but the reviews on the monitor are stellar.

  8. Posted June 23, 2008 at 7:45 am | Permalink

    Doug
    Thanks for sharing that about the monitors, that will be a helpful resource for me when I upgrade my monitors in the future.

    Kristarella
    Another thing you’ll want to consider is a monitor calibration tool like the Eye-One. It’s basically a camera that you plug into your computer and place against the monitor. It will calibrate your monitors physical settings as well as calibrate your color profile in your OS.

  9. arif
    Posted May 23, 2009 at 12:23 pm | Permalink

    nice

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